Hello everyone,
I know some users had a bit of problem with their 131 and over-sized Toslink connector, and here's how to fix it... WITHOUT voiding warranty!
PLEASE REMEMBER, THE WARRANTY ONLY REMAIN VALID IF METAL DUST IS NOT FOUND WITHIN THE UNIT. METAL DUST FROM CARELESS WORK WILL CAUSE DAMAGE, AND THUS IN SUCH CASE, THE WARRANTY CANNOT BE HONORED. However, we will still repair the unit at our cost and do it in a way that minimize the cost.We worked on a simple solution that a lot of people can work themselves after we have a great TOSlink cable that won't fit DA-131... it is our
SIO Quartz Multi-Fiber cable.
Before you can plug the cable in, you need to modify the DA-131 slightly to allow the plug to be inserted.
First of all, find a clean work surface that you can work on. I chose the dinner table for this demo, and just add a flattened card-board box is all you need to protect your table and allows easy clean up when you are done.
As usual, REMOVE UNIT FROM POWER and UNPLUG THE POWER CABLE WHEN YOU ARE WORKING ON IT!The tools that you need:
10mm open ended hex socket wrench (for removing Coaxial RCA socket)
12mm open ended hex socket wrench (for removing Coaxial RCA socket)
2mm hex screw driver (for removing top panel)
Larger Phillips screw driver (For removing the rear panel)
Black paint (I use "touch up" paint for cars, you can get them in auto parts store, get ones with little brush like nail polish, it makes application easier)
Tapered Reamer (for enlarging the cutout)
15mm drill bit + drill (not recommended, recommend using tapered reamer for a much cleaner cut)
The 6 green circles indicates the 6 screws that holds the top panel in place, use the 2mm hex screw driver to undo the screws. For easy management of the parts that you are taking out, leave the screw on the panel and take it off as shown in the next photo.
Now place the top panel on a piece of cloth or something that's not too abrasive.
use 12mm wrench for the nut on the outside of the RCA socket, and use the 10mm wrench on the inside of the socket's two flat surfaces as shown in the next photo.
Turn the outside wrench to loosen the 12mm nut, do not turn the 10mm wrench on the inside, it is there to hold the socket in place so that it won't move when the 12mm nut on the outside is being removed.
As soon as the 12mm nut is loose enough to be turned by hand, take the 12mm wrench off and spin the nut off by hand. (it's quicker than wrench when it is loose)
With the nut removed, the 2 washers and the socket itself is easily taken out. Save the two washers and nut as you will need them to put it back in again when you are done.
Now we are on to the transformer's wiring, the photo above shows the 4 pin plug that connects the transformer to the power control board.
If you have DA-131, the wiring from the socket to the transformer is secured on a terminal block, and can easily be removed with the use of a Phillips screw driver.
If you have DA-131.1, the wiring is soldered on, and if the wire from the power board to the transformer is long enough for you to get the board far enough from the chassis, then you can just gently pull it out. If you would like to completely remove it, please use a Phillips screw driver and a socket wrench to remove the transformer, and then you will be able to easily detach the transformer from your board.
Press the tab on the the plug and gently remove it from the socket as shown above.
Now onto the Analog RCA sockets, just like the transformer, it can be removed by pressing the tab on the plug connecting it to the circuit board.
For DA-131 and DA-131.1 owners, the wire is secured via a terminal block, we do not recommend touching that block. Instead we recommend taking the RCA sockets off the panel as is done with the Coaxial RCA socket.
And OFF it goes!
And now use a Phillips screw driver to remove the four Phillips screws that hold the rear panel in place.
Now with the screw removed, the rear panel is ready to be removed!
The parts that you need to take care of,
for DA-131/DA-131.1 owners, you will have 6 washers and 3 * 12mm nuts instead of the 2 washers and a single 12mm nut seen in the photo.
Now, if you do NOT feel comfortable working with drills and reamers, this is where you stop and contact me for shipping the panel back and I'll do it for you. For DA-131 and DA-131 Mk2, you ship the panel back only. While for DA-131.1 you will need to remove the transformer as well and ship that together to me. Please package the transformer with good cushion, as shipping damage can occur if the panel's edge is banged onto the transformer. If the transformer if damaged, it will be replaced at a reasonable cost, but still it is a cost that can be easily avoided.
NOW! Take the chassis of DA-131 off the table, because the following operation will create metal dust/shavings, and it can and will cause damage to any electronics come in contact with it (think of short circuit, smoke and popped fuses). So be safe, and put DA-131's chassis with the board away from the direct working area that you will be doing the reaming/drilling. For
DA-131.1 owners, the transformer's input cable should be long enough to allow you to work with the rear panel safely away from the main chassis. If not, please follow the instruction above to remove the transformer so that you can work with the rear panel without having the DA-131's chassis/circuit board in the way.
Here's the tapered reamer, simply apply a steady pressure while you turn the reamer, and it will cut a very neat hole. The cut will be fairly smooth and unlikely to require and de-burring afterwards.
If you have to use a drill, this is what happens when you do. The cut is a bit on the rough side, but nothing that can't be fixed with a little bit of work with a file.
Now, isn't that a lot better? If you have the proper 15mm drill bit and the reamer at the same time, you can drill first and then use the reamer to smooth out the rough edge produced by the drill. This will be faster than just using reamer along, and will smooth the rough drill cut on the panel quite nicely.
Now with the touch up paint applied, leave it still for the time period instructed by the touch paint's manufacturer. If it is not stated, it would be safer to leave it overnight to dry and harden. Do NOT use markers or similar type of stuff, as it is way too thin. Paint pens will also work as it is thick and will create a protective layer over the now exposed steel cut-out.
Another view of the enlarged cutout with the paint applied.
Now, this picture is the reason that I used a cardboard box to cover my work space (dinner table). At this stage, you will not need the reamer or the drill anymore. Put them back into the tool-box, and clean the metal dust/shavings off the cardboard and the rear panel for the next step of the work.
Place the washer with raised inner rim onto the RCA socket, and have the raised rim facing out. This will help the RCA socket lock onto the RCA cut out on the panel. If you have DA-131/DA-131.1, this will also be a good time to do the same for the analog RCA sockets.
Now after the paint had dried and before you screw the panel on, it is time to test if the larger cable will fit fine.
Now install the transformer's plug and analog RCA's plug on their respective spot, then screw the rear panel on with 4 Phillips screws, and have the Coaxial RCA socket inserted into their cutout on on the panel.
Hold onto the socket from the inside and put the flat washer on from the outside, then spin the 12mm nut on until it is not easily turned by bare hand. Then follow the step above about removing the nut in reverse to mount the RCA socket/nut on securely with socket wrenches. Please do not over-tighten, as it can cause damage to the socket.
Now with everything tested fine, it is time to put the top panel back on again.
With the top panel installed, it is now time to take that bottle of Alcohol (Ethanol), and clean the finger smudges left on the unit so that it would look sparkling again!
Enjoy.
David
